Our 18-day dual-summit strategy utilizes the classic, deep-immersion approach through the Markha Valley. This traditional route is specifically chosen for its superior, gradual altitude gain, which is essential for maintaining the long-term stamina required to conquer both summits in one expedition.
- Progressive Acclimatization: By trekking through the heart of the Markha Valley—via Thochungtse and Nimaling—we ensure your body is perfectly primed for the 6,223m Kang Yatse 2 summit before transitioning to the technical giant.
- The Seamless Transition: Unlike separate trips, this itinerary bridges the two peaks directly. We move from the Kang Yatse 2 Base Camp into the high-altitude technical camps of Kang Yatse 1 without ever losing your hard-earned acclimatization.
- Strategic Safety: This sequence avoids the hazardous and unstable "knife-edge traverse" between the peaks. Instead, we reset at the high-altitude hub to approach the South-East Ridge of Kang Yatse 1, maximizing safety and technical success.
- Massif Mastery: This route offers the most comprehensive experience of the massif, allowing you to witness the total geological and cultural diversity of the region before the high-stakes technical climbing begins.
There are 3 different approaches to the summit of Kang Yatse 1. While the most climbed is via the South-East ridge, the other 2 are difficult routes.
1. From Kang Yatse 2 Summit to Kang Yatse 1 Summit, via the Knife Edge Ridge: It's one of the most difficult routes to reach the summit of KY1 and requires immense technical climbing skills. Recently, a team from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute successfully traversed from KY2 to KY1 and made history.
2. From Kang Yatse Glacier: This was the old climbing route and is seldom used these days as it requires long rope and the uncertainty of the glacier makes planning difficult.
3: From South-East Ridge: This route is very steep and requires negotiating a steep section of the scree zone and a small section of broken ridge. This allows to camp overnight on a small ledge on the summit ridge and makes it a little easier. We use this route to climb on our planned expedition to KY1