The upper half of the Satopanth Tal trek is the part that makes it Moderate+. The terrain here is meadow, glacial moraine, loose rocks and boulders, and temperatures run from about -5 to 15 degrees C.
Day 4: Laxmiban to Chakrateeth
This day gets tricky. The trail goes over boulders, and huge cairns mark the way. In bad weather the route is hard to follow, so we stay with the guide, and that is not a formality. Past the boulder field you enter an area of small streams flowing down, which is where Sahastra Dhara begins. The slope steepens from there, and Chaukhamba, Satopanth, Neelkanth, Parvati and Balakun open up ahead. You camp at Chakrateeth, on a stretch of small humps, with the views to yourselves for the rest of the day. Allow 5 to 6 hours for the 9 km.
Day 5: the moraine climb
The climb from Chakrateeth to the lake is short, about 3 hours and 5 km, but steep, over glacial moraine. Footing is loose. Take it slowly, and keep the group close.
Weather
Weather here can be unpredictable, and it often worsens after noon. The answer is an early start, and we aim to be in camp before the afternoon turns. Spring and early summer, May and June, are drier, and the end of September and October bring clear skies. Both seasons work. From July to mid-September, the monsoon makes the road to Badrinath unreliable, and we do not run the trek then.
What to carry
You carry a daypack with water, layers, a rain shell and sun protection. We carry the camps, food and tents. Warm layers matter, because the lake camp sits well above 4,000 m and nights are cold.
Walking is the main skill here: steady pace, careful footing on loose rock, patience on the moraine. If you have trekked at 4,000 m before, this will feel familiar.